Scalp care basics: a healthy scalp routine

Think of the scalp as skin

The scalp has more oil glands than most areas of skin, and it is covered by hair that traps oil, sweat, skin cells and product. That is why it can feel greasy, itchy or flaky when it is not cleansed often enough, and tight or irritated when it is scrubbed too hard.

A healthy scalp usually feels comfortable. It should not be persistently itchy, sore, red or heavily flaked. Some variation is normal, for example with the seasons or during stressful periods.

How often to wash

There is no single right answer. People with an oily scalp, fine hair or who exercise often may prefer to wash daily or every other day. People with dry, curly, coily or textured hair often wash less frequently. The best routine is one that keeps your scalp comfortable and clean without leaving it tight or irritated.

When you wash, focus the shampoo on the scalp rather than the lengths, massage gently with your fingertips rather than your nails, and rinse thoroughly. Leftover shampoo and conditioner can contribute to itching and build-up.

Choosing products

Choose a shampoo that suits your scalp rather than your hair alone. A few general pointers:

• If your scalp is sensitive, look for simpler, fragrance-free products and introduce new ones one at a time.
• Apply conditioner mainly to the mid-lengths and ends unless the product is designed for the scalp.
• Use heavy oils, butters and dry shampoo in moderation, and wash them out regularly.
• For flaking, a pharmacist can suggest a medicated shampoo, which usually needs to stay on the scalp for a few minutes before rinsing.

Be cautious of products that promise to detox the scalp or rebalance your microbiome. The scalp microbiome is an active research area and specific claims often go beyond the evidence.

Build-up, flakes and itching

Mild flaking is common and often responds to regular washing and a pharmacy dandruff shampoo. Build-up from styling products can be lifted with a clarifying wash from time to time.

Persistent flaking with redness, greasy yellowish scale or itching may be seborrhoeic dermatitis. Thick, well-defined, silvery patches that extend past the hairline may be scalp psoriasis. Both are common and treatable, and your GP can confirm what is going on and suggest treatment.

A simple routine to start with

If you are not sure where to begin, a straightforward routine is a good starting point:

• Wash as often as keeps your scalp comfortable, focusing shampoo on the scalp.
• Rinse thoroughly, then condition the lengths.
• Every week or two, use a clarifying wash if you use a lot of styling product.
• Brush or comb gently, starting at the ends and working up.
• Change pillowcases, brushes and hats regularly, and keep your own brushes to yourself.

Give any change a few weeks before judging it, and change one thing at a time so you can tell what makes a difference.

Protecting your scalp

The scalp can burn in the sun, particularly along a parting or where hair is thin. A hat is the simplest protection on bright days. Keep heat tools off the scalp, and avoid very tight styles, which can pull on the follicles over time.

When colouring or using chemical treatments, follow patch test advice every time, even with a product you have used before, as allergies can develop.

When to see a GP

See your GP if your scalp is painful, burning or very itchy, if you have marked redness, pus, open sores or crusting, if patches look shiny or scarred, or if you notice hair loss alongside scalp symptoms. Sudden patchy loss, loss of eyebrows or lashes, rapid loss, symptoms in a child, and hair changes with other symptoms such as tiredness or weight change also need a doctor's opinion.

Getting support

Stylists, head spa therapists and trichologists can all help with everyday scalp care. Trichollective's directory lists cosmetic, clinical and medical hair and scalp professionals across Ireland and the UK, so you can find the right kind of support near you.